Here’s Why You Won’t be Served Gobi Manchurian in Goa

In the busy lanes of Covolasium Goa, three brothers running their food van was surrounded by customers. While one brother took orders, another was busy cutting and chopping ingredients, and the third was preparing the beloved local dish, Chicken Cafferel. The food truck's menu featured only two items: Chicken Cafferel and Gobi Manchurian, intriguingly listed as "Gobi Fry Chilli." When inquired about the unique naming of the dish, the owner responded with a smile, explaining it was a creative workaround to local regulations prohibiting the sale of "Gobi Manchurian" in Goa.

It's surprising how the simple dish Gobi Manchurian has sparked controversy significant enough to capture national headlines. This Indo-Chinese fusion dish has become the center of debate in Goa, with several municipal corporations prohibiting its sale. The situation has escalated to the point where Gobi Manchurian has become a contentious issue for Goan authorities. Initially celebrated for its popularity, the proliferation of Gobi Manchurian stalls, especially in coastal regions, has recently been viewed with concern.

“Its not just we who have changed the name, most of the vendors and restaurant owners specially in Mapusa region have changed the name of the dish and selling it. See, there is customer demand, people like eating it so would would we get impacted. I respect my local cuisine and i also celebrate the cuisines worldwide,” Jacob Noronha, one of the three brothers running the food van commented. 

In Mapusa, Goa, the municipal council took a firm stance by banning the sale of Gobi Manchurian at road-side stalls and during festivals, marking a significant moment in what has been an ongoing culinary dispute since 2022. This decision followed a call for a ban by Mapusa councillor Tarak Arolkar during a local festival in January, a move quickly endorsed by other council members.

The ban comes amid unspecified health concerns, including allegations of using synthetic colors and lacking hygiene in its preparation. In 2023, actions were taken against six vendors in Ponda for unhygienic practices, and similar measures were implemented in Bicholim ahead of religious festivities.

The ban has ignited discussions on social media and among the public, questioning the rationale behind the administration's decision. Mapusa's municipal council has cited health complaints related to the dish's preparation as the primary reason for their intervention.

“The targeted prohibition initiates a wider conversation on the intersection of food culture and politics. In a country where vegetarianism is intricately linked with cultural and religious traditions, the specific restriction of a well-liked vegetarian dish may lead to unforeseen social and cultural consequences. It encourages contemplation on how dietary preferences and prohibitions can mirror and influence the intricate fabric of Indian society, where culinary choices often echo broader cultural, religious, and socio-economic factors. This culinary dilemma acts as a miniature representation of the broader, sometimes complex relationship between India and China,” Puja Khilnani, Founder of Elephant Beach Cafe in Anjuna commented.

The controversy also touches on cultural and authenticity debates within Goa. Some argue that the dish's popularity, particularly among vegetarian tourists, does not pose a hygiene risk. However, concerns persist that the proliferation of non-local food stalls could dilute Goan culture. This sentiment is part of a broader discussion on preserving Goan culinary traditions amid a shift towards accommodating diverse palates, highlighted by a recent mandate for beach shacks to serve traditional Goan meals.

"It's conceivable that local vendors in Goa may have felt a threat to their customer base when a few introduced a unique dish. In Goa, the consumption of paneer is relatively low, so for vegetarians, the closest alternative to dishes like chilli chicken and chilli prawns was gobi Manchurian. Interestingly, when tourists visit Goa from various places, they easily identify with gobi Manchurian if they're not seafood enthusiasts. I've never witnessed any business loss due to its inclusion on the menu," stated David Lobo, a business owner of StarFish, a casual dining restaurant and bar in the South Goa Colva region.

This is not the first instance of Gobi Manchurian facing scrutiny in Goa. In 2022, the state's Food and Drugs Administration issued guidelines limiting the sale of the dish during a temple fair in South Goa, underscoring ongoing apprehensions regarding food safety and cultural preservation.

The dish's origins add another layer to the debate. Often considered Chinese cuisine in India, Gobi Manchurian is, in fact, an Indian invention, with little to no recognition in actual Chinese culinary practices. This revelation underscores the complexity of cultural exchange and adaptation, as Indian 'Chinese' food, or 'Chinjabi,' blends elements from various regional cuisines, creating a uniquely Indian dining experience that continues to evolve and spark conversation.

Gobi Manchurian, the vegetarian counterpart of chicken Manchurian, is believed to have originated from the creative mind of Nelson Wang, an Indian restaurateur with Chinese heritage, in Mumbai during the 1970s. This dish epitomizes fusion cuisine at its finest. Combining the quintessential Indian aromatics of garlic, ginger, and onion with the kick of fresh green chilies and the savory tang of soy sauce, it represents a harmonious blend of flavors and cultures.

While causing quite a stir in Goa and its neighboring Karnataka regions, the innocent Gobi Manchurian continues to be a beloved dish throughout India. But who knew food could be such a troublemaker, right?